This year at Watches & Wonders Geneva, Grand Seiko presents five new 44GS models. These watches feature upgrades to several well-known references and will employ cases and bracelets made from Grand Seiko’s Ever-Brilliant Steel. This alloy is not common in Grand Seiko’s catalog, and these releases mark just the second use of Ever-Brilliant Steel non-limited production models after the introduction of last year’s SLGH013.
A proprietary alloy, Ever-Brilliant Steel features a radiant white hue, making it immediately eye-catching when finished to Grand Seiko’s exacting standard. It is especially beautiful when paired with Grand Seiko’s signature 44GS case, with its multi-dimensional structure emphasizing both the high-end finishing and the luster of the new case material. Particularly notable are the hairline-finished surfaces of the case, which look markedly whiter in appearance.
Additionally, Ever-Brilliant Steel has a high level of resistance against corrosion, with a PREN (Pitting Resistance Equivalent Number) that is 1.7 times higher than the grade of steel commonly used in high-end watches. This ensures longevity, a key tenet of Grand Seiko’s watchmaking ethos.
Heritage Collection 44GS Hi-Beat 36000 Ever-Brilliant Steel “Mt Iwate”
SBGH299 and SBGH301
Both watches measure 40mm in diameter, 13.3mm in thickness, and 46.2mm in length from one lug end to the other. The cases are paired with a five-link bracelet that measures 19mm at the lug width. The two models are rated to 10 bar water resistance and have a dual curve sapphire crystal that sits atop the dial. A sapphire crystal offers a view of the movement through the case back.
SBGH299 and SBGH301 both have dials featuring the Mt. Iwate pattern, inspired by the many-ridged contours of Mt. Iwate, which is visible through the windows of Studio Shizukuishi where Grand Seiko mechanical watches are made. The silver dial of SBGH299 captures the look of a snow-capped mountain, and the black dial of SBGH301 evokes the mountain at dusk.
Powering both watches is the Hi-Beat 36000 Caliber 9S85. Running at 36,000 bph, Caliber 9S85 has a 55-hour power reserve and an accuracy rating of +5/-3 seconds a day. With a faster oscillating balance, a “Hi-Beat” movement has greater resilience against external forces like shocks and vibrations, which results in more reliable daily timekeeping.
SBGH299 and SBGH301 will be available April 2023 from Grand Seiko Boutiques and select retailers.
Heritage Collection 44GS Hi-beat 36000 GMT Ever-Brilliant Steel​ “Mt Iwate”
SBGJ263, SBGJ265, and SBGJ267
All three watches feature vibrant dials adorned with Grand Seiko’s Mt. Iwate pattern, with SBGJ263 finished in white, SBGJ265 in a warm black (much like the dial on SBGH301), and SBGJ267 in blue.
The cases measure 40mm in diameter, 14mm in thickness, and 46.2mm in length. They are rated to 10 bar water resistance and feature sapphire crystals on both sides.
Powering the watches is the Hi-Beat 36000 GMT Caliber 9S86, which runs at 36,000 bph, delivers an accuracy of +5 to -3 seconds a day, and offers 55 hours of power reserve. A GMT function allows the user to track an additional time zone, making all three watches excellent travel companions.
SBGJ263, SBGJ265, and SBGJ267 will be available starting April 2023. SBGJ263 and SBGJ265 will be available from select retail partners, and SBGJ267 is a Grand Seiko Boutique exclusive.